Smashing Darling Blog

When you see something like this you know who made it:

That’s right…Kaytee.

Kaytee of PapuszaCouture has some fantastic designs and we can’t wait to see how her NY debut goes. Good luck with everything Kaytee!

We wanted to start our interview out with Kaytee’s answer to Julie Lake in the previous interview. We wanted to know just as much as you did…here’s what Julie asked Kaytee:

JL: I find that with some people there is a strong desire and love for
designing and, with others, there is an innate and necessary need to
create. I saw that Kaytee Papusza, of the amazing Papusza Couture,
started designing and sewing when she was extremely young and that she
grew up within the design world. It made me wonder if clothing design
is a chosen passion of hers or if it is an essential compulsion since
it was such a strong aspect of her upbringing.

K: i think it is a little bit of both. i was, indeed, born into the world a seamstress and design. as a child my mother made almost all of my clothes, which was an endeavor i acquired as a teen. i have sewing scissors that have been a family heirloom for generations. if i use anything else i feel, creatively, like i am not putting all of myself into what i am creating. i think that what i do, in terms of being a seamstress and a creator of beautiful things is in my blood. my mother was always adamant about my learning how to sew. i remember as a child she started me out with design by teaching me how to make poodle skirts for my barbies. the first thing i ever made was a little pink felt barbie poodle skirt. she encouraged fashion illustration and i think recognized something in me that her mother had seen in her, and that my grandmothers mother had probably seen in her. she chose to nurture it, which certainly pushed me in a certain direction in terms of where i am now.

however, i also always had a big imagination, and lived in a world of fantasy much of the time. i was a bit of a faerie tale child. there was a love for the creativity and imagination in art which blossomed in me as a passion from an early age as well. i think that passion, combined with my innate need to create played a huge part in what i do now, which i see as essentially creating wearable sculptures.

SD: How did you end up in the fashion business?

K: part of it was certainly influenced by my family and how they always encouraged my imagination and love of fashion, as well as the things they taught me. before i was serious about design i dabbled in the world of modeling, and through that found an easy niche in styling, which led me back to sewing and designing actively.

SD: Where did you go to school and what did you study?

K: i went to school a couple of different times for things not fashion related. first i studied creative writing in arizona and later, after coming back to the northwest, started studying cultural anthropology in seattle. in the end i would always loose my passion, and end up in the world of art and fashion. i am, however, appreciative of the various studies, as i think the exposure to such distinct types of knowledge has influenced me creatively and shaped my aesthetic a great deal.

SD: What was your first job in this industry?

K: i never really had a technical first “job” in the industry. i more or less just got into it as a form of art and expression and acquired a knack for it, ya know? then, via modeling, i got into design/wardrobe styling for photo shoots, and it kind of just took off from there in terms of working in the industry.

SD: What inspires your designs?

K: natural history is a big influence for me. i think it is of strong interest to me because it conveys life cycles, destruction, and the rehabilitation of existence. i also derive a lot of influence/inspiration from mediums of art outside of fashion, painting being the favored. i love collaborating with other artists, especially painters. the texture of paint on cloth is exquisite.

i like to think a lot of my strongest work is that which many people see as being dark. during my childhood i had a vast imagination and was always encouraged to embrace it. my brother and i were convinced that the house we lived in was haunted. ghosts and death became a fascinating thing to me at a young age, which only evolved over time. i like to think of my stuff as being somewhat haunting.

i have, in more recent years, grasped that darkness in my work as an avenue for expression of the darker things that exist inside of me. one of my favorite collaborators, my best friend who is a painter has a similar aesthetic and experience of creation. she particularly, among various other collaborators, has been inspiring to me because we share that expression in our aesthetic. painters, in general, are inspiring to me.

SD: What is your design process?

K: i like to start out with an idea, a story. sometimes it’s very abstract, other times more literal, sometimes it’s very very fantasy, and generally it has a more opaque quality to it. but yes, i create a concept and then i draw from that. i like to create a whole string of characters in this story, and i guess in any collection i do each garment can be viewed sort of as a character or a chapter of it’s own. i usually sketch some ideas before hand, but never feel obligated to stick with what’s on paper.

after i have developed the idea in my head and gotten a sense of where i am going with it i start with the actual construction process. when i drape i generally prefer to be alone, music playing. i don’t answer the phone or see anyone. i like to sort of get into my own little space, my own little zone and experience the textures of fabric beneath my fingertips, the pierce of a needle through a detail, or the soothing hum of my sewing machine.

creating clothing is very meditative for me. when i am in my creating space i sort of loose all sense of time. it’s always amazing to look at the finished product too. it’s so rewarding, energizing, and that aftermath creates this wonderful sense of fulfillment. upon completing something i love i feel the most alive.

SD: Describe your philosophy behind your designs?

K: my general philosophy is that the body is my canvas and fabric is my medium.

to me designing clothing is about creating a masterpiece. i have been an extremely creative person for as long as i can remember. just about everything i have done passionately had a creative derivative to it. i like the idea of fashion as art, and that is how i see what i do.

i also like to think of my work as being intelligent, because it tells a story. i have a strong opposition to malls and mass produced clothing, in part because much of what you find is very boring to me. i think beautiful garments should make the person who is wearing them feel something.

SD: What does your average day entail?

K: i usually wake up, have coffee and do email. mid morning i’ll pick up on what i’m working on or start something new. lot’s of sewing, draping, often i break for dinner and go spend time with friends or get a coffee. i often spend a lot of time on the computer, coordinating shows or photo shoots. i spend a lot of time working with other artists i am collaborating on stuff with. even though i feel like i often am not out of my space there is still never enough time… life can get crazy.

SD: If you knew then (before you started your business) what you know now,
what would you do differently?

K: have a business partner who was organized and good with logistics. i’m still working on it. i am not so good with that aspect of having a “business.” it’s always been really difficult for me to have to consider that stuff. i just wanna make stuff.

SD: In your opinion what is the best and worst current fashion trend?

K: i don’t really like the idea of trends in general. i think people should have their own style, rather then trying to dress like someone else because it’s popular.

i do, however, have favorite creations that have recently emerged in the fashion world. i have in this past year been particularly in awe of hussein chalayan, and his presentation of kinetic couture in both of his past two collections. i loved his S/S, shown at paris fashion week in ‘06. i loved that the silhouettes of the dresses changing to convey another era. his work is a brilliant example of both intelligent fashion and fashion as art.

SD: Who is your greatest influence and why?

K: i would probably have to say my parents. i grew up in a world of creative individuals. constantly i was surrounded by people involved in theater, dance, textiles/sewing/design, painting, poetry, etc. my parents encouraged this all of this so much in both me and my brother, who is also an artist. my mother taught me everything in the basis of who i am as a seamstress, and she taught me a lot about design. my father put a lot of emphasis on having intelligent ideas and not being afraid of being unusual or thinking outside of the box.

SD: What do you think the hardest aspect of the fashion industry is?

K: making enough money to support yourself and create your vision. the vein my work is in it is really difficult to do what i love… create more avant garde garments that would be worn to a very specific occasion, and be able to make a reasonable enough income to support what i want for what i often wish to create. in part that is why i generally only do custom stuff and one of a kinds. it can be really difficult sometimes to make it in a world of mass produced goods.

SD: Do you have any events you are getting ready for in the near future?

K: yes, yes! i am showcasing my dead bird collection at a show i am having august 15th called Sleeping On The Wind. you can veiw some of the collection at http://www.iqons.com/PapuszaCouture .

we are all very excited, it’s gonna be a fabulous show, it’s gonna be a wonderful collaboration. i have three visual artists, a couple ballet dancers, a couple of aerialists and a violinist who will all be partaking. i am building a theatrical production around a runway show, focused on the concept of dead birds. this will be my last show in seattle before relocating to new york and i really want to celebrate and thank all of the people here who have helped me and inspired me so much. i have been very lucky during my time here, which i truly am grateful for.

SD: What’s next for your line?

K: it is going to be a collection inspired by a fusion of traditional mexican katrina dolls, goth lolita, and the art of certain contemporary painters whose work has been of great inspiration to me. the overall aesthetic will be very doll like, but very exagerated and sculptural. it will be the first full collection i will be doing in nyc, and i am excited to see how it will be received.

SD: If there was one designer on Smashing Darling you could ask a question to who would it be and what would you ask them?

K: i have always been a huge fan of the work of miss Pinar Eris. I think she has such original beautiful work, and i love how incredibly creative and artistic her aesthetic is. i would be interested to know how she felt when emerging as a designer, and still feels today, about the way people receive wearable art as fashion.

We look forward to finding out what PINaR ERIS has to say in response.

Thanks again Kaytee!

-The Darlings