Smashing Darling Blog

If you understand indie film and music, why doesn’t it translate into fashion as well?

What’s different?

It’s the same concept, right?

When you hear the word “indie” what does that mean to you?

These are some of the questions we have been asking people lately and I wanted to post some of the responses and ask you to join in on the dialogue.

1. “With the emergence of grunge in the 80’s indie music became popular.Fashion doesn’t have a Pearl Jam to lead the charge. It’s up to us!”

2. “I think it means someone who distributes their work outside the “normal” distribution channels of their business.”

3. “re: indie. Unique - maybe something I wouldn’t purchase everday but something I would splurge on….”

4. “edgy; unique; alternative; hip; smart; the new mainstream; cult and very cool.”

5. “I think it is the history I have with the word association with ‘indie’. My mind goes there first. ‘Indie designer’ gets me there faster. I have only heard of ‘indie’ in fashion design for a few years. With music and film it has a longer track record for me.”

6. “Means something unique, one of a kind, not available at lots of store, unknown, cool, hip.
(also means underfunded, cash strapped, not-big-yet )”

7. “When I first here ‘indie’ I think of indie music first, then movies. Indie designer to me means funky, unusual and unique. To me it also has a very personal edge to it.”

8. “Indie 2 me means music indie artist always has, signifies ‘away from corporate’ ”

Subject: difference between indie film/music and fashion

9. “indie film or music costs, say ,10 dollars to enjoy, indie fashion costs, say, 200 dollars; who wants to spend that when they can’t rely on the seller/brand…”

10. “For the word Indie I think of Indie rock, indies rock bands, college radio - that is just my age… for fashion I don’t like it, but that’s just me :)”

This last answer we asked why not the term ‘Indie Fashion’. Here is the response:

Re: word Indie

“I would prefer something like “boutique manufacturing” “boutique” “independent” “small-scale” “artisan” “atelier” “arthouse(?)”, whatever – I mean, Attributes of about “small independent business” for an art/craft business can be great when we think about the strengths of it (individual attention to work, precious/unique/exclusive product….), but the downside is of “small independent business” can be things like unreliable business, shoddy craftsmanship, failure to deliver… so “indie” for me is maybe some kind of red flag especially in terms of quality of product, reliability, trustworthiness – it’s hard to spend money when the person/business you are depending on to deliver has no assets or even reputation to lose… but that’s just me!!! I know the whole world is saying “indie” now and it probably doesn’t mean that to them… I am definitely not a marketing expert, They know better.”

This is a snipit from their bio. I love the description and wanted to share it with those that haven’t read yet:

“We draw from an urban aesthetic where multi-culturalism and pop culture merge with inner city decay, graffiti and a lo-tech DIY sensibility. We look back at our culture to see what has endured and use it as a road map to where we’re going. As a culture, we are mixing elements from around the world to create the future. It’s important, as Americans that we see beyond our current political regression and focus on the fact that the world unfolding around us is incredibly exciting. We strive to reflect and celebrate this to some degree in our designs.” Visit fiftyseven-thirtythree.

Anna May Wong, REBEL Two Sided Top by fiftyseven-thirtythree

SD: When and how did you start your company fiftyseven-thirtythree?
LN: oakland based, fiftyseven-thirtythree started selling our tees and hoodies for the very first time on may 27th, 2007 at capsule design festival in san francisco. we had just about 40 tees + a handful of hoodies and got a surprisingly good response. People walked out of our booth rocking our hoodies + tees. up until then our tees and hoodie which are stenciled, screen printed, and appliqued were hiding in our studio. james dawson and loretta nguyen started our company that same very day.

SD: Where did the name come from?
LN: fiftyseven-thirtythree comes from our building number. we thought it wasn’t cheesy and it truly represents us plus we work from fiftyseven-thirtythree.

SD: Where do you turn for inspiration for your designs?
LN: We draw from an urban aesthetic where multi-culturalism and pop culture merge with inner city decay, graffiti and a lo-tech DIY sensibility. We strive to reflect and celebrate this to some degree in our designs. We draw upon different sources for inspiration, pop art, military clothing, and post-war boutique fashions. We look back at our culture to see what has endured and use it as a road map as to where we’re going. As a culture, we are mixing elements from around the world to create the future. It’s important, as Americans that we see beyond our current political regression and focus on the fact that the world unfolding around us is incredibly exciting.

SD: Do you have a favorite image or design from your present or past collections that you would like to share with us?
LN: wow that’s hard to say. each individual design and the process of making is unique.

SD: Who is your customer?
LN: from teens to people in their 40’s. they all rock.

SD: How do you market yourself and your label?
LN: we set up at local fairs, designer trunk shows and festivals. we are also member of the Oakland Artisans who sell their crafts at the Jack London Square on the weekends. we’re on myspace, etc.

SD: How do you see your company in the future?
LN: it’s been growing stronger all the time. we just completed our first year of being in business and figuring out all the little details that go into running one. we are super excited and are hopeful that our continuing success is going to take us far places. we like to hit up boutiques overseas. no big department stores for us.

SD: Do you have any projects near and dear to your heart that you are working on?
LN: fiftyseven-thirtythree is planning to take our label to the next level. we are planning for Pool Trade show this August 2008. that’s the BIG project.

SD: What does your average day entail?
LN: well between the two of us…A LOT. if i told you it would be dizzying. we design, produce, market, work on administrative stuff all day long. it’s a lot of fun.

This week’s volunteer for our photo critique is a designer of something near and dear to all our hearts … shoes! We’re so happy to have Ricardo Tovar on our site, and wish that more shoe designers would join us as well.

To begin with, we really like this designer’s very sleek shoes but the overwhelming consensus is that we just need to see more. Give us MORE, we say! Ideally, we’d like to see more alternate views of each shoe (most only have one shot), closeups that show off details, and even model shots if possible. We’d also like to learn more about the shoes from the descriptions, too … no detail is too small to include, and the more info you’re able to give, the more comfortable a buyer will be with making a purchase. You really want to make them feel like they’re holding the shoe in their hand (or slipping it onto their tootsies!)

In terms of photo quality, the shots could definitely use a bit of tweaking. The lighting appears to be from a small source like a built-in flash, which leaves things looking a little harsh, with some hot spots bouncing off of the highly reflective leather. We’d definitely recommend experimenting with some different lighting setups to get a brighter, cleaner, and softer look. We’d love to see backgrounds that are more complimentary to the shoes, too … the wrinkled fabric in these is a little distracting and, unfortunately, doesn’t put the shoes in the spotlight they deserve.

Overall, we think this is a boutique from a very talented designer that just needs a little more attention, and a bit of an injection of the designer’s own style, imagination, and personality. Another thing to try might be to look online for some stores or designers that you admire, and pay particular attention to how they market their shoes. Almost always you’ll find some spark of creativity that you’ll be able to apply to your own work. Here are a couple of places we found that we thought did a very nice job of showing off their shoes:

Marimekko (above): http://tinyurl.com/5anwzs

Patrick Cox (above): http://www.patrickcox.com/

Anthropologie (above): http://tinyurl.com/5arw73 (some cool ideas for backdrops here!)

We’ve suggested a lot of things here (as we always try to do!) and we know it can get overwhelming. So here’s something else to consider. We’re very aware that most of you out there are first and foremost fashion designers. If all of the little details and minutiae of producing photos and writing descriptions gets to be too much, don’t forget that often the best answer is to outsource these marketing-related tasks to someone else. If your talent is designing and not showing your pieces in their best light, then let someone else do that for you. There are tons of fabulous photographers and copywriters out there who can lend their talents to making YOU look great.

So if you’re spending too much time stressing over photos, just remember that sometimes the best answer (and the one that can best free you up to concentrate on what you’re best at) is to get some help!

As always, we wish Ricardo Tovar (and all of our smashing designers) nothing but the best, and we hope that our critique will be helpful. Anyone else have thoughts or suggestions? As always feel free to email them to us at …. or comment below. We have also run out of stores to critique so if you are ready to do some spring cleaning on your store (or show everyone how amazing you are) email me at: julie[at]smashingdarling[dot]com.

The first person to comment on the blog and tell me who said or wrote this wins a Student Smash Up item from Smashing Darling.

Who said this?

“A mouse never entrusts his life to only one hole. “-?

Now the only thing left to do is go peruse the store to feast your eyes on all the delicious choices and make your selection.

Good Luck!

These 3 are still up for grabs. Check them out and give it a shot.

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Put you hair in a ponytail. Tear through your house. Grab your bag. Throw something over your bathing suit. Grab your shades. As your running out the door to meet your girlfriend who is already sitting in the driveway (in the convertible) honking the horn, don’t forget to do a last grab for the Havaianas. They are the only thing that will save your feet from scorching when you step foot onto the sand this weekend.

You can actually do a good deed by purchasing very special pairs of Havaianas. Check out Makeup Mavens Take On Havaianas In A Charitable Way posted by my friend Jean, CEO/editor of Style Observer.

Items Pictured:
This Little Birdie Went to Market bag by Nancy Gamon
Tiki Flower Hair Elastic by Yosifa Penina
Swing Set Dress by Allison Leigh Apparel
Pleated Peacock Handbag by boom chick-a-boom
“No Tie” Sarongs by Go girl wrapperz

This set was put together using Polyvore. A great website to collect all of your favorite finds, put them all together and share them with others.

If you would like to be Editor For The Day. Put a set together including products from Smashing Darling with a post send me a link to it on polyvore and I will check it out. Have fun and be creative. Send to trish(at)smashingdarling(dot)com.

Cheers,
Trish

AN EVENING OF FASHION AND MUSIC

WHAT

Event designed to empower and promote emerging female talent

• - 10 Diverse Fashion Designers
• - Live Fashion Photo Shoots
• - DJ and Live Entertainment
• - Audience of 500+ Manhattan fashion and media professionals
• If you are a designer and interested in showing click here to view the application
• Designers from Smashing Darling that may be showing are Anne De Pasquale and MerGirl.
• 

• WHEN

  Saturday, October 25th, 2008

• Like to attend this fabulous evening RSVP here.

• WHERE

  CANCO Lofts [www.cancolofts.com]
  50 Dey Street
  Jersey City, NJ

Inspired by film noir and vintage lingerie, Ouvrez La Porte’s designer Karen La Porte, chooses seduction over sexy, alluring over loud. Wearing an Ouvrez La Porte silk dress can make one feel at once both demure and sensual . This retro sensibility leaves something to the imagination and let’s the woman wearing it shine through. To stay up to date with all the designer is up to stop by her newly launched blog. If you are in Brooklyn pop in the store and say hi. 105 Bond St. (Atlantic & Pacific) Brooklyn, NY 11217 Tell her we sent you!

SD: When did your love for fashion design begin?
KLP: I knew in Jr. High that I wanted to be a designer or involved in fashion somehow. There was no question about it by the time I graduated from High School.

SD: Where does the inspiration for your designs come from?
KLP: Films from the 1940’s, film noir, vintage lingerie. I mix it with a little modern edge.

SD: Did you study fashion design, apprentice, or are you self taught?
KLP: I earned a BFA in fashion design from Parsons School of Design and worked as an assistant designer for Rebecca Taylor for a few years.

SD: Where and how did you first start your business?
KLP: I started making dresses in my studio apartment and I just searched for stores to take them. I started selling them on an indie fashion boutique website, Mighty Flirt, which was my first real break. I then needed work space and I opened my own boutique/studio in Oct. 2003. I now sell other indie designers like myself and vintage clothing. When it’s quiet I can be found sewing in the back.

SD: What does your average day entail?
KLP: My average day is spent running my boutique, I open shop, merchandise and manage, do shop girl duties, and then work on my own designs. I make my own patterns and do all of my own sewing. It’s a balancing act that keeps my day interesting. It is fun to be on both sides of the coin. I also get to see customer’s reactions first hand which is wonderful.
SD: Describe your personal style.
KLP: I am currently mixing up a 40’s/60’s look by wearing vintage shopgirl dresses and lacey stockings. A sort of femme fatale meets mod, if you will. I’ve been wearing vintage since high school and it never gets boring. I love to mix the lady likeness of vintage with something more edgy and rock and roll.

SD: Who are your fashion icons (past or present)? Do you think they influenced your personal style?
KLP: Back in Jr. High when my fashion ideas were forming, I was most influenced by Siouxsie Sioux, Audrey Hepburn, and Ines de la Fressenge ( the Chanel model of that time). Mix those three together and yes, they have influenced (and still do) my personal style. They are my core, what I always go back to reference. Presently I love Gwen Stefani and Dita von Teese.

SD: Do you have any current fashion obsession?
KLP: Vintage slips, I can’t get enough of them!

SD: What advice would you give someone just starting in your field?
KLP: Find what you love, and find your own path. There is no one way to achieve something. I love being in the indie community so much more than I did working on Seventh Avenue which I was trained for. I found a way to still be in fashion, but on my own terms. My advice is to find your own way.

SD: Do you have any events you are getting ready for in the near future?
KLP: Yes, a sample sale in my Smashing Darling store and next fall will be the 5 year anniversary of my boutique in Brooklyn! That can’t happen with out a party!

SD: Do you have a question or a comment for anyone one Smashing Darling?
KLP: Keep it up! I love it all.

Make sure you stop by her sample sale!

There’s lots good to say about our volunteer for this week’s critique, Asilomar Works. First, we’d like to say (even though this isn’t related to photography) that we LOVE it when designers make nice use of the area at the top of the boutique designated for store logos … this one fills the space nicely, and the name of the boutique is clear and bold.

Asilomar Works has some very interesting and unique pieces with a vintage flair. The photography for the most part is very nice and clear, and most items give at least a couple of alternate views. The descriptions of the items are very well written, too, and very clear about sizing and other details.

Spice it up - As far as things we would suggest, one thing stands out in our minds. While the photos are overall clear and of good quality, we think they could use an injection of personality and fun. Instead of solid or white backgrounds it could be a lot of fun to experiment with images that reflect the personality of the individual pieces and inject a bit of energy in to the shots. This could be accomplished by varying the backdrops, making them relate to the jewelry conceptually, or even tying in to the designer’s love for history, design, and film (from the designer’s profile.) You should always consider keeping at least one view with a white background for clarity, but experiment with a solid style that fits what you are selling for the main images.

Models - We also think that careful consideration of models could help enhance the shots, too, and help push these beyond product shots to shots that sell. Remember that models, should you choose to use them, should always reflect the personality of the piece, and should serve to enhance the look of the piece itself. If the model doesn’t look great, then he/she isn’t doing your product any favors!

The designer also posed a question to us that we’d like to answer directly, because it deals with something that affects us all: monitors, and how photos can look different on someone else’s system. She asks:

I am wondering how clear my photos are, if they give a good sense of each piece or if they are too dark or don’t show enough detail. I adjust my photos on a laptop and they look bright enough on that screen, but I have heard some comments that they appear too dark.

The answer is not a particularly easy one because the truth is that all monitors are different, and as they age, they vary even more widely. On our monitors here (which are well color corrected and calibrated, newer Mac systems) the shots look just fine. However, someone out there in cyberspace working on a 10-year old uncalibrated system may indeed see things differently. Since we can’t control the way that viewers see our images once we put them out there, the best we can do is to make sure our own monitors are accurate. You can learn more about monitor calibration at http://tinyurl.com/ywghes and http://tinyurl.com/22zwxb

We hope these ideas are helpful and wish everyone nothing but success. Thanks again, and feel free to email comments to julie[at]smashingdarling[dot]com …. or leave a comment below.