by trish on January 13, 2009
Before opening a Darling boutique on Smashing Darling, couture milliner Katie Burley followed her heart and hands to the Maryland Institute College of Art in Baltimore, MD to study Fibers and Wearable Sculpture. After many interesting adventures, from working in a one room “sweat shop” in NYC, to making one of a kind hats for the runway, she now calls San Francisco home. Each hat is hand-blocked and hand-trimmed by her, with selected materials that are few-of-a-kind or vintage, making each piece couture. She is inspired by pieces of discarded history, hunting in alley ways and digging through thrift shops for abandoned souls.
Get to know her better below, and p.s. images taken by Katie, hats modeled by Katie…fabulous, darling!
Darlings: How did you get into Millinery?
Katie: After switching my major just about every semester in Art school, I took a non credit course in millinery (from the now famous Jennifer Behr, http://jenniferbehr.com/). I was in love within the first five minutes! Finally I had found something that combined every aspect of art that I loved, line gesture, color, composition and sculpture. I settled into the Fibers department where I explored wearable sculpture and my love of all things cranial.
Darlings: Where do you turn for inspiration?
Katie: I love digging through thrift shops! When I don’t know what direction to go in, I’ll go to my favorite thrift and dig for hours. My inspiration definitely comes from vintage lines, whether it’s a belt buckle or a tattered piece of old lace.
Darlings: What does your average day entail?
Katie: As hard as I’m working towards being my boyfriends sugar momma with my hat sales, I do have another job. I’m a florist by day, mad hatter by night. I wake up early every morning and go to the San Francisco Flower Market. I am definitely enchanted with the tiny universe that is in each flower.
Darlings: What surprises you the most about having your own line?
Katie: Evolution. I constantly look at my older designs and just when I think what could I possible do next, I see exactly what has to happen. Once I work through a season of styles, that evolution seems to naturally come out in the next.
Darlings: Have you had other careers along the way?
Katie:Besides being a florist, I was an art teacher for a while. I was really inspired by children and their uninhibited imaginations. I sometimes felt I was learning more from them!
Darlings: Who is your customer? How do you market yourself?
Katie: Someone who appreciates attention to detail and the timeless beauty of a well crafted, handmade piece of art. Wearing my hats has been my best advertising. I’ve sold many right off my head!
Darlings: Describe your personal style.
Katie: I always top my outfits with a hat! A hat is the perfect exclamation point!
Darlings: What is the one item in your wardrobe you can’t live without?
Katie: My shoe rack! Without it, where would I possible store my Imelda Marcos sized shoe collection?
Darlings: If you could travel anywhere in the world where would you go?
Katie: Angkor Wat in Cambodia. I’ve been to a lot of different countries, but to be in the midst of something so ancient and mysterious really excites me.
Darlings: Do you have any events that you are getting ready for in the near future?
Katie: I’m always involved with local artists’ events in the city, from indie fashion shows to living room dance parties! The next event that I’m excited to be a part of is a neighborhood gallery party, if you’ve painted, photographed, stitched, built it or mixed it…you’re in it!
Darlings: Tell us about something you LOVE that you want others to know about.
Katie: If you are in San Francisco, RUN don’t walk to the Yves Saint Laurent show at the DeYoung. It is the only US showing and you will absolutely melt.
Darlings: Is there anyone in the Smashing Darling community you have a question or comment for?
Katie: ALL of you are SMASHING darling! I’m very flattered to be a part of this community.
by trish on December 5, 2008
Meet Xenia Marie Viray…A small and ferocious creative girl who works for the Original Online Glossy ZOOZOOM. A poet and screenwriter at heart, she loves looking at fashion as a cultural artifact and at all of its creators as artists, and also people, with wonderful and absurd stories to tell about how they got where they are, and why they choose to make things.
Photo by David McIntyre
WHO AM I TO TELL YOU?
People always assume that we don’t have one another’s best interest in mind.
I think that’s false. I am always searching for head gear and unique jewelry and affordable clothing with a long shelf life, and the people around me often are too. As a stylist and a fashion writer at ZOOZOOM I get to spend many of my daylight hours on my search. (It’s work!) And I really want to share my favorite finds with you because I really want you to share your finds with me. And also, what’s better than supporting the arts just by looking good? Here are my favorite’s on Smashing Darling.
AMBIGUOUS STAPLES
I want to start with pieces you can wear to work (assuming you don’t work in a drone-ruled office) and also out for a happy hour (or two.)
KRELwear’s cotton tunic has the loose silhouette and minimal design akin to some of my favorite high-end knit wear brands. It’s all about shape and textiles, and virtually seamless (literally!) Karelle Levy knows what she’s doing, she knits her own fabrics!
Along the same lines of exaggerated shapes with minimal embellishment, Pantora’s cowl neck sweater dress is a versatile canvas to wear in the fall and even when it starts to get warm again. It’s certainly not a loud piece; it’s subtle, and both practical and sexy, which are not qualities that traditionally coexist.
OLD AT HEART
Anyone who knows me will tell you I’m geriatric chic. I like old and old-looking things. The Urge to Adorn’s found photography belt buckles are the perfect ’something old’ to your ’something new.’ 100 percent pewter and often made with recycled materials (like tires), The Urge to Adorn’s goods are a feel-good and unique source of accessories you will probably keep for life.
HEAD OF THE CLASS
Besides being an old lady at heart, I am also obsessed, and I mean OBSESSED with millinery and head gear. I love hats, and if I wasn’t so short that I lose a lot of my peripheral vision when I wear a cloche, I would most definitely buy any and all of Anne De Pasquale’s creations, especially her Art Deco felt Cloche. Since I’m wary of not being able to see anything higher than five feet, I personally opt for Katie Burley Couture Millinery’s delicate chantal hand-shaped sinemay with vintage stamens. It is delectable and is sure to get you many an envious look.
IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A DEPENDABLE DESIGNER
…then you better look at everything that Laura Dawson makes. To me, as a lady who has seen many up-and-coming designers float and sink, I can tell Laura Dawson has the staying power and vision to be around for a long time. She’s worked with the Scissor Sisters, Brazilian Girls, Richard Avedon, Mick Jagger & Steven Klein. She’s no joke.
