PapuszaCouture

Early September I found myself stationed on an army base in Keflavik, Iceland for Iceland Fashion Week (IFW). Iceland? …with a few Darlings – why yes! Darlings Kaytee Papusza of Papusza Couture, Karelle Levy and her crew from KRELwear, and 16 other talented designers from all over the world were there. Each designer was invited to take part at the expense of IFW, yet all paid there own way to get themselves and their collection there. We had some time all together, designers and press, to ooh and ahh over the beauty that surrounded us: snapping pictures at the Church of Wishes, gazing out the tour bus window at volcanic rocks creeping with moss (this could make such a dreamy fabric), and wondering…did we really just eat puffin and whale?

Sadly, neither the inspiring landscape nor a magical troll could hide the lack of organization of Iceland Fashion Week as it was revealed in Keflavik Harbor on the final day. We all arrived to a sub-par runway made of pallets of Icelandic Glacial water, many broken and all with plastic wrap hanging off of them. The Walk on Water theme presented to the designers had sounded breathtaking, but this staging was a far cry from meeting the expectations of the designers who were told they would show in an amazing natural habitat. Among other issues, 18 designers were all meant to squeeze into three small tents backstage without hangers, rolling racks, irons or even electricity for that matter. When designers confronted IFW President/event choreographer, Kolla Aðalsteinsdóttir, about their issues she compared the atmosphere to what they would find in Milan and Paris. (!) Then, as if it couldn’t get worse, it began to rain.

I could go on and on about the drama that ensued, and questions of who is to blame, but I would much rather tell you about Iceland Rebel Fashun: I love this part. Take the passion and determination of one independent designer, multiply it by thirteen, and what do you get? Instant community and collaboration at it’s finest. Icelandic designer Arndis Ey of Ey Design realized in the midst of all the chaos exactly where the show could go on later that night. Information quickly exchanged, phone calls made, and suddenly plans were in the works for a Rebel show to go on at a popular Reykjavik nightclub, NASA, later that evening. The revolution was led by the Darling KRELwear team (Karelle Levy, Daria Brit Shapiro, and Jessica Bosch) and the, by this point, ex-Director of IFW Andrew Lockhart; supported by an entire team of both Icelandic models and hair and make up stylists. I watched in amazement as Karelle sorted through a list of Icelandic models, the line up for each designer, and all of the hair and make up specs. The flurry of energy ‘backstage’ really was just delicious, as if there was a low chant in the room: It can be done, it can be done.

I am sorry to say I was not downstairs getting video of the entire production. Instead I was backstage supporting KREL’s fab stylist Jessica Bosch, dressing models for the first time, sliding on gloves, grabbing shoes, and snapping together neon bracelets. This, my Darlings, was the most fun I have had since my non-profit art festival days in Maine.

Photo: www.tomz.se

By no means do I want to diminish the ugliness of what happened to this group of designers in Iceland this year. In the words of Darling PapuszaCouture, who very sadly suffered damage to her collection through this debacle, ‘things aren’t always what they seem.’ How does an emerging designer know who to trust when it comes to showing their designs and getting help with their business? Do research, ask questions….ask LOTS of them. Please share any suggestions you may have and we are happy to compile them.

Quotes from some of the lovely designers I met in Iceland:

It was such a great experience despite all the difficulties and I was really happy to meet lovely people like you! Myrto Stamou

…I am well and full of inspiration after this thing which we all in the end turned into something great. Anja Hynynen

Learn more about all the Rebel Designers: Agape Mdumulla (United Kingdom), Anja Hynynen (Sweden), Anna Unger (Ukraine), Eva Huld Ívarsdóttir (Iceland), EY Design (Iceland), Georgina Vendrell (Spain), Maldoror (Poland), Maleen Dalan (Norway), Myrto Stamou (Greece), Rodel LA (Brasil), s=yz (South Korea), YaeSeung Lee (South Korea), KRELwear (U.S.A)

~ Mo(darling)

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